Training Tips for Chicks: 8 Week Rock Climbing Training Program

If you are new to the Chicks Training Tips take a few minutes to read the previous newsletters, there’s a lot of great information in there!
Its incredibly beneficial for all the Chicks to be introduced to new movements and concepts for training, and initially implementing these in a regular workout in almost any fashion will create positive change. So re-read the first 6 installments to get a look at all these great movements. Videos have been included!

IMG_3288Rock Climbing Training Program, 8 Weeks

I’m going to start with an intermediate rock climbing training program, this applies to the climber who leads and is comfortable top roping up to 5.10 or 5.11. Here we go, lots to explain but I’ll try to keep it simple and out of the weeds. Your week will look like this:
Monday – Yoga or active recovery
Tuesday – Strength session gym and power climbing
Wednesday  – Strength session gym and strength endurance for climbing
Thursday – PE session gym/Cardio vascular output
Friday – Rest
Saturday – Climb
Sunday – Climb or rest if overly tired, listen to your body this is a lot of volume
Climb  2 – 4 days a week to the best of your ability.
Week 1 – 3: Hard weeks push yourself.
Week 4: Easy week- take three rest days and just have fun, don’t train with any structure or you’ll burn out or worse break.
Week 5 – 7: Hard weeks push yourself again.
Week 8: Easy week – take three rest days and just have fun, don’t train with any structure or you’ll burn out or worse break.

Days in Detail

Monday – self explanatory
Tuesday – If possible climb first: warm up on easy routes or boulder problems, this is a hard bouldering workout for climbing power, try things you fall off after a move or two, try and do all moves and project the same problems for three weeks you will make progress every week. In your session once warmed up complete: 3xVO 2xV1 2xV2 1xV3 –
Then once the skin is done head to the regular gym area and do a supplemental strength workout.
Wednesday(You may have to skip this workout at first depending how sore  you are from Tuesday till you build the capacity to recover from this amount of work. Thats ok, listen to your body. If you do then do active recovery,  yoga, recovery endurance, etc.) 
Start with climbing, now it’s routes of difficulty. warm up on two moderate pitches then. TR or Lead with no hangs or very short hangs if you fall, i.e. get back on the wall.
Three routes at or close to your limit back to back with no rest. for example 5.10, 5.11, 5.9 you should be blowing off the last route due to pump and fatigue both mental and physical. Climb routes you know so you can be super efficient and try to finish them once you fall you are done, no hang dogging. do 3- 4 groups of three pitches. Vary difficulty so you are always falling on last pitch or close. As the weeks progress make the pitches more difficult: 5.10, 5.11, 5.11. Find a partner psyched on this as well, they belay you, then you belay them!
Then once the skin is done head to the regular gym area and do a supplemental strength workout.
Thursday – This is a cardio vascular output WO, this is for heart rate capacity or VO2Max and your ability to recover when under duress. Very important while leading difficult routes you’ve got to be able to recover quickly at rests, and that’s not just forearm recovery, heart rate management is key.
You’ll do WO provided below under the Power Endurance category (IWT) and the like. If you are super sore from Tuesday’ WO and can’t climb Wed, then shift your climbing to Thursday and do routes + PE WO and rest Wednesday. Or do Yoga.
Friday –  Rest, or active rest go on a walk, easy ride. It takes a lot of mental and physical energy to be disciplined enough and work hard at training. Give your body and brain a down day.
Sat and Sun – go outside I want you to try and climb both days, or get Endurance greater than 90min on one of the days. Saturday – Push Hard climbing you should feel good coming off a recovery day.
Sunday –  go easy, fun indoor climbing or nice long ski or ride. Or rest if necessary.
Repeat the week above, move things around as life demands. And get a friend to train with you so much more fun!
If you’d like specific Strength WOs to try so you don’t have to build your own. Email me
 and mention the Chicks Newsletter and I’ll send you workouts based on what has been listed in the newsletters so far. There is a fee involved, which will be discussed at the time.
Power Endurance WO are below. We haven’t spent much time discussing this type of workout in the newsletters so here are a couple of examples.
Power Endurance #1
Warm up 10:00 Row, 5:00 minutes of the 10:00 sound be 30 secs hard, 30 sec easy to open up the pipes a bit.
wall squats 3 x5
goblet squats 2 x 10
shoulder openers 2 x 10
warm up to your deadlift weight
5x Deadlift+ 90 Sec Row, 2:00min rest
Three Rounds.
5min rest
5x Front Squat + 90sec Airdyne (indoor bike) 2:00min rest
Three Rounds
5:00min rest
7 x 15m KB Bear Crawl 2 @ 30 –  55# DBs or KBs
Power Endurance #2
Warm up:10min C2 or Airdyne
wall squats 3 x5
goblet squats 2 x 10
oh walking lunges 2 x 10
2:00 KB Swings + 500m Row + 20x Box Jump 18″ + 20x Front Squat/Push Press with DBs + 2:00 Airdyne (Indoor Bike) Go Hard! + 2:00 KB Swings rest 2:00
x 2
8 – 1 Push Up Ladder

Chicks Training Videos:

View our complete list of videos on the Chicks Climbing YouTube Channel.
New videos this week: