Rock Climbing Training Program-Advanced

Carolyn Parker putting her rock climbing training to good use on Wanderlust,  Kalymnos, Greece, ©Robbie Klimek

Carolyn Parker taking a hike on Wanderlust,  Kalymnos, Greece, ©Robbie Klimek

Advanced Rock Climbing Training Program

First read 8-Week Basic Rock Climbing Program Part 1 and Part 2.

Then, when you finish the 8-Week Basic Rock Climbing Program (nice work btw!), try the Advanced Rock Climbing Training Program, which builds on the Basic Training program with

1) back-to-back climbing days

2) and bouldering.

Schedule:

Monday – Yoga or Active Recovery

Tuesday – Bouldering and Strength

Wednesday – Gym climbing routes for climbing endurance

Thursday – Aerobic work 90 min, conversational pace

Friday – Rest

Saturday – Climb

Sunday – Climb or 90 min Aerobic work, listen to your body this is a lot of volume. Do the beneficial aerobic work if overly tired.

 

Climb 2-4 days a week to the best of your ability.

 

Week

1 – 3   Hard weeks, push yourself!

4        Easy week – take three rest days and just have fun, don’t train with any structure or you’ll burn out or, worse, you’ll break.

5 – 7  Hard weeks, push yourself again.

8        Easy week – take three rest days and just have fun, don’t train with any structure or you’ll burn out or worse break.

 

Monday – Yoga or Active Recovery—Self-explanatory

Tuesday – Climb

Warm up on easy routes if possible or easy boulder problems. This is a hard bouldering session for climbing power. Try problems you fall off of after a move or two. Try and do all the moves. Project the same problems for three weeks. In your session once warmed up complete:

3 x VO

2 x V1

2 x V2

1 x V3

Then, once your skin is done, head to the regular gym area and do a supplemental strength workout.

Two Strength-Training Workouts for Advanced Rock Climbing Training:

Advanced Strength-Training Workout #1

10:00 warm up light aerobic work

2 x 8 shoulder opener

2 x 5 cuban press

3 x 5 wall squat

and any mobility work you need to work on.

Then:

5 x

3 x Single arm body row

3 x KB Bosu Chest Press

10 x – Floor Wiper

Rest as necessary

Then:

2 x

HSPU Ladder (5 – 1)

Rest as necessary

Advanced Strength-Training Workout #2

10:00 warm up light aerobic work

2 x 8 shoulder opener

2 x 5 cuban press

3 x 5 wall squat

and any mobility work you need to work on.

Then:

6 x

2 x Single arm offset pull up per arm

8 – 10 x Anchored leg lower add weight if appropriate, hold med ball between feet.

Rest as necessary

Then:

5 x

5 x Bent Over Row with lock off in three positions

10 x Archers (5 per arm)

10 x Hanging Windshield Wiper (5 per side) Legs straight, keep hips high

Wednesday–Climb

You may have to skip this workout at first.

It depends on how sore you are from Tuesday and your capacity to recover from this amount of work. However, that’s ok. It’s important to listen to your body. If you skip it, then do active recovery, yoga, recovery endurance, etc instead.

Start with routes of difficulty. Warm up on two moderate pitches then, TR or lead with no hangs or very short hangs—if you fall, immediately get back on the wall.

Do three routes at, or close to, your limit, back-to-back with no rest. For example: 5.10, 5.11, 5.9. You should blow off the last route due to physical pump and mental fatigue. Climb routes you know, so you can be super efficient and finish them. Once you fall you are done, no hang dogging. Do 3 – 4 groups of three pitches. Vary difficulty so you are always falling on last the pitch or close to it.

As the weeks progress make the pitches more difficult: 5.10, 5.11, 5.11. Find a partner psyched on this as well, they belay you, then you belay them!

Then once your skin is done head to the regular gym for a supplemental strength workout.

Thursday – Aerobic work 90 min, conversational pace

Friday – Yep, rest, or active rest. Go on a walk or easy ride. The discipline to work hard at training takes a lot of mental and physical energy.

Give your body and brain a down day.

Saturday and Sunday – Go outside and climb both days. Or, make sure you get endurance greater than 90min on one of the days.

Saturday – Climb hard. You should feel good coming off a recovery day.

Sunday – Climb easy, take a nice long ski or ride, rest.

Repeat the week.

Move things around as life demands and get a friend to train with you because it’s so much more fun.

Most importantly, remember to have fun and train hard.

Carolyn Parker
Ripple Effect Training
www.rippleffectraining.com

1 reply

Comments are closed.