Quad Anchor – How to Make a Quad Anchor

Quad Anchor

The quad anchor is a versatile method to equalize any anchor.

First, I’ll explain how to apply one on a 2-bolt anchor for a top rope.

Then, you can watch Angela demonstrate a number of different ways to tie one in the Building Quad Anchors for Rock Climbing video below.

The advantages to using a quad anchor are many:

  • It’s redundant.
  • It self-equalizes
  • It’s quick to tie
  • It’s easy to double check.

Gear You Need:

  • 1 Cordelette (6mm Sterling Power Cord or 7mm nylon cord, at least 15 foot in length). Join the two ends with a double fisherman’s or another knot of your choice.
  • 4 locking carabiners. I recommend 2 smaller locking carabiners like the Petzl Spirit and 2 larger, pear-shaped locking carabiners like the Petzl Attache.

Sterling cord with 4 locking miners

 

4 Steps to Building a Quad Anchor:

  1. Double your cordelette over so you have 4 even strands. Position the knot that joins the two ends to one end of your loops. 

Sterling cord tied and then folded to make 2 loops2. Tie an overhand knot on either end of the cordelette.  You should now be looking at 4 strands in the middle and two loops on either end. Keep them a little loose so you can slide them closer together or further apart depending on how much lateral movement you need. 

overhand knot makes two loops

 

tie a second overhand on a bight to the other end of the folded cord to make a quad anchor
3. Clip your SMALL locking carabiners to the loops on either end of the cordelette. You will clip this to each of the two bolts.


4. Separate the 4 center strands, and clip your 1 LARGE locking carabiners to two out of the four strands in the middle, then clip your last locking carabiner to the remaining two center strands. For best practice, make sure you opposite and oppose them. 

 

 

quad anchor5. Voila, you now have a perfectly constructed self-equalizing quad anchor rig to set up your top rope.

Learn more about Quad Anchors in our Climbing Clinics. Go to Chicks Programs to find out more. Our climbing clinics are held in many world-class climbing destinations across America.