Petzl Spirit Express Quickdraw

Petzl Spirit Draw

The Petzl Spirit Express Quickdraw is the Cadillac of all quickdraws. It’s smooth clipping action is unparalleled and I definitely notice a difference of how easy the rope clips into it when I’m on the sharp end. It’s notchless keyhole design sets the standard for all carabiners on the market, because they are way easier to clip and it makes unclipping them a snag free operation. Whether you’re on lead or cleaning them on top rope, you’ll do less fighting with the quickdraw putting them on and taking them off whatever they are clipped to.

The Spirit Express Quickdraw also comes set up with one straight gate carabiner and one bent gate carabiner. Remember the straight gate always gets clipped to the metal hanger on the bolt and the bent gate makes it more ergonomic to clip the rope into it. The webbing (aka dogbone) that connects the two carabiners is nice and beefy, which makes them more durable and easy to grab if you ever feel the urge to French free through a section of a climb. The dogbone is nice and stiff which makes clipping out of reach bolts a touch easier.

The Spirit Express Quickdraws come in two lengths, 12cm and 17cm. I personally prefer the shorter ones but it’s nice to have a longer one or two for good measure to help the rope run in as straight a line as possible on a route. If you’re not sure what length to get, go with a 50/50 split and you’ll be well equipped for any route.
How many do you need? That depends on the area you climb at, how tall the routes are and how many bolts are on the climb. They are sold in single units (as opposed to a pre-packaged set), so you can buy as many as you think you might need. In my experience, 12 quickdraws is usually enough to get me up most sport climbs. And if I need more, I just borrow some from my climbing partner and hope that they too have Spirit Quickdraws too.

For more info on carabiner basics and proper use, including tips on clipping, Petzl’s website is a treasure trove of information. Check it out