Hangboard Workouts
A KEY part of rock climbing is finger strength.
Fingerboards, also known as hangboards, are both inexpensive and a great way to develop finger strength.
Hangboards are particularly efficient if you are too busy to get to the climbing gym.
The first rule of training on a hangboard is to err on the side of caution. Build up to smaller and smaller holds, especially if you’re new to it or haven’t been rock climbing in a while.
You can place a fingerboard over most doorways, out in the garage, or some other convenient spot. This allows you to get a super productive workout, in a short period of time, all in your own home!
Get some recommendations on purchasing a fingerboard here:
https://www.outdoorgearlab.com/topics/climbing/best-hangboard
Three Great Fingerboard Workouts
FINGERBOARD WO #1
4x
30 sec push ups / 30 sec rest
Rest 2 min
Then:
5x
5 pull-ups / 60 sec rest
Rest 2 min
Then:
Choose 5 fingerboard grips that you can hang onto for 10 sec (e.g. jug, pinch, crimp, sloper, three finger pocket)
For each grip complete 4 rounds of:
10 sec hang / 5 sec rest
Between grip hang rounds, take 2 min to complete one of the following 4 core exercises:
1) 20 x sit-up
2) 60 sec v-sit
3) 60 sec plank (on feet)
4) 60 sec flutter kick
(Rotate through core exercises until each grip-hang round is done.)
Then:
4x
30 sec push ups / 30sec rest
FINGERBOARD WO #2
4x
30 sec push ups / 30 sec plank
Rest 2 min
Then:
10 – 1 Pull-Up Ladder:
10 pull-ups / rest 30 sec, 9 pull-ups / rest 30 sec . . . continue down to 1 pull-up. (
Use assistance like a chair under your feet or a band if necessary.)
Rest 2 min
Then:
Choose 4 hangboard grips that you can hang onto for 8 seconds (e.g. jug, pinch, crimp open hold, three finger pocket).
For each grip, complete 3 rounds of:
8 sec hang / 5 sec rest.
Between grip hang rounds, take two min to complete one of the following exercises:
1) 20 x sit up
2) 60 sec v-seat
3) 60 sec flutter kick
(Rotate through core exercises until each grip hang round is done.)
FINGERBOARD WO #3
Pick 5 handboard holds (e.g. jugs, pinches, crimps, open, three finger pocket).
On each hold type do 3 rounds of:
10 sec hang during which time you complete a pull-up while hanging /
30 sec rest
Rest 3 min between hold pull-up groupings
Then:
8 x 20 sec work / 10 sec rest of the following movements with 1 – 2 min rest in between:
1) Sit Ups
2) Push Ups
3) Flutter kicks
Final Tips
If you’re new to Chicks Training, I encourage you to take a few minutes. Read the previous Chicks Training Posts. Training is incredibly beneficial and there’s a lot of great information there to get you started.
If you are looking for some motivation, consider that implementing new movements and concepts into a regular workout pattern in almost any fashion will create positive change.
And, if you’d like to discuss training for a specific climb or trip of any nature you can contact me at:
carolyn@rippleffectraining.com
Carolyn Parker
Founder Ripple Effect Training
Gym Jones Certified
AMGA Rock Guide
Uphill Athlete Coach