Practice

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Karen Bockel guiding in the Alps, Summer 2019. ©Karen Bockel Collection.

Karen Bockel guiding in the Alps, Summer 2019. ©Karen Bockel Collection.

Everyone has to practice. There is no free lunch. Although, I often think there should be, as in, “When am I finally going to get a break? I’ve been working so hard!”

The reality is all things take work.

I just got back from a long summer of alpine climbing in the Alps. This means I spent lots of time in big boots, navigating on glaciers, and sleeping in huts.

Great days!  After all my favorite type of climbing is alpine climbing. However, big boots and glaciers don’t really help my rock climbing game.

Now, all of a sudden, I’ll be in the vertical and managing two ropes while I guide two climbers.

Systems in vertical rock climbing are different than in alpine climbing.

So, today, I spent a few hours practicing rock-climbing systems in the garage.

I pulled out two ropes and put two imaginary climbers on belay. I refreshed my memory as to how to make efficient multi-pitch transitions. I reminded myself of many little things like how to orient the carabiners, in which order to securethe team at the belay, and where to re-stack the ropes.

I went through all the small steps that together make the difference between smooth operating and struggle, between fun and frustration.

And maybe most importantly, my practice might make the difference between being confidant and safe verses making a potential mistake.

Yes, it felt like work to get my ropes out and to put my harness on in the garage. However, I know practice pays off. And, truth be told, this bit of practice was not even that painful, once I got started…

See you on the rock,

Karen

Patagonia Sunshade Hoody | Gear We Use | Rock Climbing

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patagonia sunshade hoody

Posing in Patagonia Sunshade Hoodies during Chicks Red Rock Clinic

I love my Patagonia Sunshade Hoody.

If you spend as much time outdoors in the sun as I do and you have a fair complexion like I do, it’s critical to minimize sun damage to your face and neck.

Call me vain, but the last thing I want is to look like a leather handbag with sunspots and wrinkles prematurely.

When the laugh lines on my cheeks developed their own tan lines, I knew it was time to duck for cover underneath my favorite article of clothing, the Patagonia Sunshade Hoody.

I live and guide full time in Red Rock, Nevada, just outside of Las Vegas and I spend a lot of time out in the sunshine.

Sunscreen alone doesn’t do the trick and it’s inconvenient to have to reapply it at the crag. So my go-to sun protection and “climbing uniform” is my Patagonia Sunshade Hoody, oversized sunglasses, and a visor hat that fits underneath my helmet. The sunshade hoody is SPF 50+ after all.

I love how the scuba-like hood doesn’t blow off in a breeze like other sun hoodies tend to do, and it fits overtop my helmet without pulling on my neck. Also, the high cowl neck covers my décolletage, and the thumb loops keep the back of my hands covered.

Not only does it keep the sun’s rays off my face, neck, and upper body, it dries quickly, breathes well, and smells acceptably fresh between washings. I’ve collected every color over the past few years and if you open my closet you’ll see every color under the sun.

I’ve tried other SPF clothing options out there and the Patagonia Sunshade Hoody continues to be my perennial favorite.

No matter if I’m guiding our desert programs like Red Rock and Joshua Tree, or the higher elevation crags like Rifle and Maple, you’ll find me underneath my own personal sunshade.

Carolyn’s Quick and Dirty Core Strength for Chicks

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basic plank demonstration

Basic Plank

Core strength is critical to all sports, climbing and skiing included.

We so often seem to run out of time. Or we fall into the pattern of doing the same old thing because we don’t have time to think of new stuff.

Whether you are a beginner or a crusher, my quick and dirty core routine has basic, intermediate and advanced versions.

The routine builds off of 4 movements: leg lowers, windshield wipers, sit-ups and plank. Together, these four movements target prone and supine stabilization as well as flexion and rotation:

Basic Core Strength:

Start with 5­­–10 repetitions of leg lowers, then 5-10 repetitions of windshield wipers, then 5–10 repetitions of sit-ups, then 30 secs of plank.

Rest 60 seconds and then do another set.

Do 3–5 sets depending on how fit you are and how much time you have.

Work up to 5 rounds of 10 reps of each exercise and 60 sec plank.

Intermediate Core Strength:

Start with 5­­–10 anchored leg lowers, then 5­­–10 weighted windshield wipers, then 5­­–10 weighted sit ups, then finish with 30 sec front leaning rest (FLR).

Rest 60 seconds and then do another set.

Work up to 5 rounds of 10 reps each and 60 sec of FLR.

 

Front Leaning Rest

Front Leaning Rest

Advanced Core Strength:

Start with 5­­–10 elevated/weighted leg lowers, then 5­­–10 hanging windshield wipers, then 5­­–10 knees to elbows, then finish with FLR plus one push up every 10 secs for a total of 6 push ups in the minute (can drop to the knees for the push ups if necessary).

Rest 60 seconds and then do another set.

Have fun with these core workouts. Unless you are familiar with these movements and 100% sure you can do them properly, I suggest everyone begin with basic then move to intermediate if you aren’t terribly sore the next day and stick with intermediate for a few weeks or months before moving on the advanced.

Contact me for further training information and programming

@Carolyn Parker

carolyn@rippleffectraining.com

970-773-3317

Founder Ripple Effect Training

A Love Letter to My Sterling Evolution Velocity Rope

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Sterling Evolution Velocity hot off the press at the Sterling Factory in Biddeford, Maine. ©Angela Hawse.

Dear Sterling Evolution Velocity,

Although you’re not always my first rope (the Skinny Bitches often get more of my attention), when push comes to shove, the skinny ones stay home and you come with me to get the goods.

Evolution Velocity you’re my trusted go-to for big adventures and when I’m pushing myself on testy sport climbs.

Whenever I really need the #freedomtofocus, you’ve got me. You’re my gal. 

Remember that hard project we worked together at Rifle last year? It was a team effort. I couldn’t have done it without you. I was scared shitless but after those two big falls into your soft catch, you gave me the confidence to send.

Your integrity, fine handling, burly sheath and dry treated core all combine to make you dependable, trustworthy and solid.

Evolution Velocity, you are so available: from 35 meters to 80 meter lengths, both solid with a middle mark and bi. Your availability makes you even sexier. 

And, I’m not sure how you do it, but Evolution Velocity, you have the uncanny ability to make 9.8 feel like the new 9.5.  

You’re going to love our next project!

Xxo Angela

 

5 Questions To Help You Plan And Prepare For Climbing Success

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Caro North on a mission to send in Salvan, Switzerland. ©Karen Bockel.

 

1. Where?

Bring your guidebook (or topos) of your desired route(s).

Read and take notes on directions to the trailhead, approaches and route description(s).

Use tech resources such as gaia.gps, mountainproject or sumitpost for beta for information.

Pro Tip – If the guidebook is too heavy, take photos of all relevant pages.

2. When?

Make yourself a time plan.

How long does it take to drive to the trailhead?

How long is the approach?

When do you want to be back?

How long does it take to get back?

How much can you climb in the rest of the time?

3. What?

Is your route the right objective for the day?

Are conditions appropriate?

Do you have the gear and experience for the send?

Have a Plan B if things don’t line up.

4. Why?

Is it a project?

Just getting mileage?

Happy to enjoy a leisurely day at the crag?

Define your goal!

5. Who?

Who is the most important part!

Are you in the right mind space?

(Put away the distractions and hidden agendas.)

 

Is your partner on the same page?

 

Communicate your plan for the day.

Teamwork makes the dream work!

 

See you in the hills,

Game On

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Kitty Calhoun climbing Filo e ferru, 6c+. Cala Luna, Sardina, Italy.

My climbing partner, Pete, and my son, Grady, and I are competitors.

The first one to redpoint a route on lead gets to win.

Though I’m younger, Pete is stronger and a foot taller.  Pete and I have been climbing for decades. Grady has only been excited about climbing for a year—but he’s 23 and when climbing he reminds me of a racecar going full speed until he runs out of gas!

The other day we were projecting a short, powerful climb.

First, I belayed as Pete methodically linked all the moves on top rope.

Then I fell off the crux again and again. I felt like beating my head against the rock.  Near the end of summer, I always feel like time is running out.

I needed to make a powerful twist-lock move to reach a pocket. I’d visualized the move over and over. But I kept falling.

“This is a dumb game,” I thought.

Then Pete said, “Try the twist-lock from the hold at your chest instead.”  I started to say, “Yeah, but…” Yet it sounded like he really believed I could do it, so I had to try. To my surprise, his suggestion worked and I found myself miraculously making the reach.

Then Pete led.  The higher he led, the more sure he became. At the chains he was practically floating.

Back on the ground, Pete caught my eye and handed me the rope. “You can do this,” he said matter-of-factly.

Inspired by his support, I tied in. My friends Elaina, Diane and Nikki were there too and they encouraged me.

With Pete’s beta I climbed the crux without falling and sent the route. Grady gave up a whole-hearted cheer.

Later, at the Cheesecake Factory, I raised a toast. “As much as I learned from The Game, the greatest pleasure is sharing, talking and experiencing climbing with my competitors.”

A Love Letter to My Black Diamond Magnetron Gridlock Carabiner

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Chicks Chamonix Alumna Kristy Lamore clipped in with the BD Magnetron after a successful summit of the Eiger. ©Karen Bockel

 

My dear Magnetron Gridlock,

You hold my heart (and my life).

Despite the pain—we’ve had a tough relationship at times—I want you to know that you are so important to me.

Many of my climbing partners and guests, mostly those who haven’t met you before, don’t like you at first. They get frustrated when they have to perform fifteen maneuvers to install you on their harnesses. Then they get disdainful when they have to re-learn how to correctly load the belay device with the rope.

It’s true; there’s a steep getting-to-know phase with you. One must learn how to squeeze your magnetic lock buttons between thumb and forefinger. Then one must learn how to hold the gate open in such a way as to easily install the “cradle” on the belay loop.

However, after the getting-to-know phase everybody finds you easier and faster than any other locking carabiner mechanism out there (especially when wearing gloves!).

Magnetron Gridlock I trust you completely.

Your locked gate does not pinch the rope.

You stay oriented in the best loading position. When I go sport climbing you hold my belay device so steadily that I can focus completely on feeding the rope to my climbing partner.

You never accidentally open your gate. This trait of yours I am particularly grateful for on my glacier travels. Other carabiners can jostle open during glacier travel but you, Magnetron Gridlock, hold my rope securely for hours on end.

You never let me down. Only once some water got into your gate mechanism and froze momentarily, but it was quickly resolved.

You are beautiful.

You are light on my harness.

Your metal stock allows the rope to run smoothly over your rounds.

Your design fits well into my hand for either for operating belay devices or rope grabs.

You’re always there for me. I could not ask for more from a locking carabiner.

Yours truly,

Karen

 

 

 

 

 

 

When Rest Is Best

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Relax. ©Carolyn Parker

It’s August and rock climbing season is in full swing.

It’s a good time for a mid-season check in.

I always check in with my athletes before we start training. I check in to make sure they aren’t working around pain or discomfort.

Recently a young, strong athlete came into my gym for her training session. Let’s call her Lucy.

When I checked in with Lucy, she sheepishly admitted that her shoulder had flared up again—it felt irritated, like her old injury was coming back.

Lucy also admitted to tripling up on strength training, adding a fingerboard workout, and lots of rock climbing. She was motivated and pushing hard because she had just “sent” her first 5.12.

However, Instead of continuing with her training session, I sent Lucy home. What Lucy really needed was to take a week off and to get a massage. I also explained to her the importance of learning to “listen” to her body.

Learning to listen to what your body is telling you is the most effective path to continued improvement.

Lucy did as I recommended and I’m happy to report she is now back on track, pain free.

The problem of not listening to our bodies arises because it is too much fun getting stronger, progressing, and climbing well. We get attached to the fun.

However, our bodies need to rest and recover and they start to send us messages when it’s time. It’s best to listen and not ignore these signs.

Why do we need rest and when?

Stress is stress: training stress, work stress, general life stress. All stress needs to be balanced with adequate sleep, good nutrition, time with friends, and time for you. I cycle all my athletes through harder and easier weeks, tapering before big events or climbs, and active recovery weeks afterward.

Most of us love to continue to do what we love to do. However, in order to continue to do what we love without getting injured, we must rest and recover. Also, the best path to continuing to get better, fitter, faster, stronger, is through rest and deep recovery.So, if you haven’t taken appropriate rest, gotten a massage, spent time on deep recovery now may be the time!

Schedule some you-time, take a nap, eat some vegetables, laugh with a friend and attend to any aches or pains before they become an injury that shuts you down.

Until next time!

All my best,

Carolyn

 

Contact me for further training information and programming @

Carolyn Parker

carolyn@rippleffectraining.com

970-773-3317

Founder Ripple Effect Training

We Joined

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We are proud to announce that we have joined the UNFCCC’s Sports for Climate Action initiative as a signatory to the UN Sports for Climate Action Framework.

This UN initiative acknowledges the contribution of sports organizations to climate change and our responsibility to actively and collectively strive towards climate neutrality.

As a signatory, Chicks Climbing and Skiing has committed to get on track for the net-zero emissions economy of 2050, in line with the aim of the Paris Agreement.

Through collective action and bold leadership, we have the power to make this fast and drastic transformation.  By signing the Framework, we have demonstrated our commitment to playing our part to ensure the sports sector is on the path to a low-carbon future.

In line with the five core principles enshrined in the Framework and the aims of the Paris Agreement, Chicks Climbing and Skiing will strive to:

  • promote greater environmental responsibility;
  • reduce the overall climate impact from sports;
  • use our platform to educate for climate action;
  • promote sustainable and responsible consumption; and
  • advocate for climate action through our communications.

Speaking at the launch event for the Framework, UNFCCC Executive Secretary, Patricia Espinosa explained that sports organizations and athletes are in a unique position in the race against climate change “because sports touches on every cross-section of society”.

With this in mind, we hope our commitment will inspire our fans, community and government to raise their climate ambition in a united effort to limit global warming to 1.5oC.  This is a race we can—and must—win to avoid significantly worsening the risk of droughts, floods, extreme heat, increased mountain hazards and poverty for hundreds of millions of people.

For the love of mountain sport we hope our leadership in joining this initiative will inspire a team spirit amongst our community to take action and responsibility for our own climate footprint.

Stay tuned for tech tips on how Chicks is working to reduce our carbon footprint, raise awareness and offset the footprint of our programs.

GU Chews | Gear We Use | Rock Climbing

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GU Chews - very important climbing accessory! ©Kitty Calhoun

GU Chews – very important climbing accessory! ©Kitty Calhoun

It was the hardest sport route I had ever attempted to redpoint.

I couldn’t rub the sweat out of my eyes, nor could I see clearly, as I reached for and held a tiny cobble in order to set up for the crux deadpoint.

My stomach grumbled.

“Now or never!” I said to myself. Then I launched, thrusting my hips into the wall.  But to no avail, my fingers only grasped the air just shy of the bucket hold and I fell back into the rope.

“Lower!” I exclaimed in disappointment.

I couldn’t give up. I was too close.  I needed to recover and then give it another try while the moves were still fresh in my head.  Clearly, I needed to rest and I needed to eat.  The problem is that I find it difficult to digest food when I am performing at my max.

Fortunately, I have discovered GU chews.

I sat down under a tree and ate a whole package of  Gu Chews followed by a third a quart of water. Then I continued to rest for a full half an hour as my stomach easily digested the Chews with just the right amount and ratio of glucose and fructose.

When I tied back into the rope, I felt strong again.

And, sure enough, when I finally held the tiny cobble to set up for the crux, my stomach did not grumble and I could see clearly. Then I launched and caught the bucket hold like it was never a hard move at all!

Now, I ‘m not saying sending my hardest redpoint to date was all because of GU chews, but I’m not saying it wasn’t either…