Entries by Dawn Glanc

5 Tips for Better Footwork on Ice

After a day of climbing, are your toes black and blue? Are your knees throbbing in pain? Most ice climbers find this to be true. Often, a few simple tweaks can alleviate the pain.   1. Be sure you have the right crampon for the job. Choose a crampon designed for vertical ice climbing. A […]

The Dawns do Iceland

Many years ago I met another Dawn. Her name is Dawn Rathburn, but she became known as Other Dawn soon after showing up to the first Chicks Rock clinic at Red Rocks in 2009. At this clinic I taught Other Dawn to tie her figure 8 and other rock climbing basics. I then talked Other […]

How to Pee without Taking Off your Harness

This public service announcement is brought to you by Chicks Co-Owner Dawn Glanc. She’s not afraid to demo this very important skill. Don’t worry, she will give you all the beta you need to execute this delicate maneuver, without revealing anything more than her granny panties.

Nice Climbing Rack

You’re heading out to go climbing and your partner asks you to bring the rack. What exactly do they want you to bring? Here are a few basic guidelines to help you show off your nice climbing rack. First, to be clear, a rack is whatever you need to climb the objective that day. If […]

How to Tie Ropes together for Rappelling

When tying two ropes together, or two ends of a cordelette, I look for a knot that is low volume and easy to tie. I find a double fisherman’s knot welds the rope together, is time consuming to tie, and is very likely to get jammed. So for years I used a Flat overhand to […]

The Most Essential Climbing Gear

When heading out to climb, many of us do a simple gear check. Helmet, Harness, shoes, rope, draws? Check. But remember, the most essential climbing gear, your chalk bag. Yes, that is right, your chalk bag is the most essential climbing gear pieces you will ever own. Many think of this equipment as a mere fashion accessory and […]

Gym to Crag – Transition from Indoor to Outdoor Climbing

Gym To Crag I’ve been guiding climbing since 1998 but only in the past few years have I met climbers who have climbed for years, but never outside. This phenomenon of having climbed for years, but never outside, is new to me and to the climbing world in general. The popularity of climbing gyms and […]

Alpine Climbing: Tetons vs Baker

It’s all alpine climbing, so what’s the difference? This Summer Chicks will be offering two alpine climbing clinics. The term alpine climbing is very vague. This can mean anything from walking on snow to vertical rock climbing and everything in between. Let’s explore the difference between the Grand Teton and Mt Baker alpine climbing programs […]

4-Minute Tape Glove – Step By Step Guide

Sometimes you need hardy a tape glove that last day after day jammed in cracks, but sometimes you arrive at the crag and a crack route just calls to you. No sweat, bust out that roll of tape that’s been bumping around in your pack for the last few months and create this quick and […]

Send The Youth USA Mixed Climbing Team To France

Back in the day, using ice axes and crampons on rock was just considered a mandatory part of alpine climbing. Today, Mixed climbing is quickly growing into its own style and discipline of climbing. No longer do we consider mixed climbing to be “off route”. Instead, today’s climbers seek out large rock faces with small […]